Brioche

Oh my…Brioche. What a delicious and surprisingly simple bread to make. Brioche is buttery and soft with sweet and savory undertones that make it absolutely delicious on its own or as a companion to other tastes, textures and flavors.

Brioche is deliciously comforting straight out of the oven spread with a bit of orange marmalade, the bitterness of the orange peel cradled by the soft, lush buttery bread. Or, crisped in a pan as a sandwich filled with smoked gouda and roasted red peppers…the cheese oozing and gooing out the middle. And of course, it makes one of the most deliciously fluffy and decadent French toast slices you’ve ever tasted.

We often see Brioche baked into loaves, but Brioche à tête is the classical shape for this bread. It includes forming the dough into balls that are stacked in fluted tins with one small dough ball placed on top. It’s important to note that Brioche dough is quite sticky and can turn chaotic. It tries to take control of your life (or it at least resists the whole rolling situation) if it isn’t tamed by an adequate amount of flour.



The formed dough is then allowed to proof before being egg washed and baked.



When Brioche comes out of the oven, it is shiny and golden with a soft aroma that begs you to indulge in a nibble.



Taking the extra time to make and use a pre-ferment when baking up a batch of Brioche encourages a more distinct and delicious taste. The below recipe is a fantastic Brioche that is sure to make you and your eaters very happy.

Brioche
(Jeanie Brown)

Pre-ferment
105 grams flour
70 grams water
¼ tsp instant yeast

Mix together on low speed for 4 minutes and leave at room temp for 12 hours (75 degrees)

For the dough
105 grams of the pre-ferment
315 grams flour (AP or Bread)
70 grams water
1 Tb + 1 tsp instant yeast
1 ¼ tsp salt
160 grams butter (cold but pliable, take from fridge and pound with rolling pic
190 gr. Eggs (~3 ½…don’t count the shells)
3 Tbsp Sugar

Egg wash (just an egg beaten with a fork will do)

Add all ingredients to the mixer except the butter. Mix with dough hook on 1st speed for ~5-10 minutes until the dough is full developed (it should be shiny and string-like as it pulls away from sides of the bowl).
Gradually add the cold butter, slowly at first, over the period of 15-20 minutes on second speed (just break off bits of butter and throw it in…and yes, it does need to take that long to achieve the perfect texture…just be patient).
Let rise for 90 minutes.
Chill overnight.
Shape dough as desired, place in buttered pans and proof for about 60 minutes. Egg wash and then bake in a 350 degree oven (that was preheated to 375 degrees but turned down as soon as the bread goes in) for ~16-20 minutes.

Raisin, Rosemary, and Cinnamon Focaccia

On lazy weekend mornings, I often wake up with dreams of baking still swirling around in my head, like the steam coming off a hot cup of coffee. Sometimes, I’m so enticed by these thoughts of baking that I eagerly pop out of my warm, cozy bed and prance into the kitchen. I swing my apron on over my pajamas, preheat the oven, and start playing with flour and sugar.

Baking in the morning is such a gentle and lovely way to start the day. The aromas fill the house (or tiny San Francisco apartment) with happiness and the promise of something delicious, soon to be enjoyed.

This past weekend, I decided to do a little advance planning and try out a recipe I’d been thinking about for awhile: Raisin, Rosemary and Cinnamon Focaccia. Although you can complete the entire Focaccia recipe in one day, you’d have to wake up before the sun to get it baked off in time for breakfast or brunch. I prefer that the sun wakes up before I do, so I put together most of the recipe on Saturday for a Sunday bake.



First I plumped the Raisins in hot water for about 5 minutes, which heightens the lush, juiciness of the Raisins in the final bread. I like to do this step with most dried fruits that I bake with to ensure that the fruits are tender and delicious…it is simply too disappointing to take a bite into an irresistible bread…only to discover that it is dotted with hard, unappealing dried fruits. Next, I proofed the yeast in warm milk and mixed in the dry ingredients. This Focaccia recipe has milk in it instead of the more traditional water, so it has a softer and more tender crumb than most (the fat in the milk coats the gluten strands in the flour so they can’t link together as easily, resulting in a more tender bread). I then left the yeast to do its magic, and waited for the dough to double in size (about an hour and a half).



I then punched the dough blob down and shaped it on a sheet tray. Then I brushed the top lightly with olive oil, covered it with plastic wrap and slid it into the fridge for later. On Sunday morning, all I had to do was sprinkle the top with some Turbinado Sugar (bigger, crunchier crystals than table sugar) and pop it into the oven.



The resulting Focaccia is softly sweet and full of juicy Raisins that are nicely balanced by the crunchy Turbinado Sugar baked into the crust. The deep fruitiness of the Raisins is enriched further by the Cinnamon and Rosemary, which not only taste delicious but smell simply divine. This Focaccia is worth the time.



This focaccia recipe was written originally to be done in a KitchenAid Mixer, but I adapted these instructions to do it without one. If you are the lucky owner of a KtichenAid, then proceed as instructed below but reduce all kneading times by about 2 minutes. Also, be sure to scrape sides of bowl and turn dough occassionally while kneading.

Raisin, Rosemary and Cinnamon Focaccia
(adapted from “The Art and Sould of Cooking” by Cindy Mushet)

2 cups plump sweet raisins
2 ¼ cups warm milk (I used 2%) heated to 110-115 degrees
1 teaspoon sugar
1 Tablespoon active dry yeast, or 2 ¼ teaspoons instant yeast
5 cups bread flour (or AP Flour)
3 Tablespoons olive oil, plus additional for brushing
2 bunches fresh rosemary, leaves removed and very finely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
1 ½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
2-3 Tablespoons Turbinado sugar


To plump raisins: Place in saucepan with water to cover. Bring water to boil, then turn off heat, cover pan, and let raisins sit for 5 minutes. Drain the raisins in the colander set in the sink and shake off any excess water. Spread raisins on baking sheet and cool.

Mix and Knead the dough: Combine warmed milk and sugar in large bowl and sprinkle the yeast on the top. Whisk in ¼ cup of flour by hand. Let sit for 10 minutes. Whisk in another 2 cups of flour and mix thoroughly for ~5 minutes (I used my hands for this, which I coated lightly with olive oil to prevent sticking, but a wooden spoon would do the trick).

Add the raisins, olive oil, rosemary, cinnamon and salt to the dough and mix until well blended. Add the remaining 2 ¾ cups of flour and knead for ~6 minutes (the dough will be very sticky…I kneaded the dough while it was still in the bowl by sort of squishing it together with my hands, which were lightly oiled).

Rise the dough (first rise): Lightly oil the tub a bowl, scrape the dough in and lightly coat the surface of the dough with little oil. Cover with plastic wrap or lint-free cotton towel and let the dough rise until doubled in size, about 1-1 ½ hours. If you’re using a tub, be sure to mark the starting level of the dough with a pencil or piece of tape so it’s easy to tell when the dough has doubled.

Punch down and shape the dough: Scrape the risen dough onto a greased 17x12 inch baking sheet with ½ inch sides and press dwon onto the dough firmly to expel some air bubbles (but don’t knead the dough again). Push and stretch the dough into an even layer in the pan. If the dough begins to pull back and resist stretching, you can brush the top with a little olive oil, set the pan aside for 10 minutes and then try again.

Proof the dough: Brush the dough with a little olive oil and cover pan with plastc wrap. Let the dough rise until it is almost doubled in size. Or, if you want to bake the focaccia the following day, brush the dough with a little olive oil, let rise ~20 minutes, cover with plastic wrap and stick in the refrigerator overnight.

Prepare oven: Place baking or pizza stone in the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Be sure to allow ~45 minutes for the stone to fully heat.

Bake the Focaccia: If you had the dough in the fridge overnight, take it out for ~30 minutes before proceeding. If not, continue on.

Remove plastic wrap, brush the dough olive oil if it was refrigerated (you can skip this additional oil if you didn’t refrigerate the dough overnight), dimple the dough by gently pressing your fingertips into the dough, about ½ inch deep, taking care not to deflate the dough by pressing too hard or making too many dimples.

Sprinkle the dough with Turbinado sugar and bake for 30-35 minutes (check that internal temp is at least 200 degrees F). Transfer to a cooling rack, brush lightly with olive oil immediately and cool for ~10 minutes before serving. Cut focaccia with a serrated knife.

Pumpkin Financier with Blueberry Compote

Pumpkin and Blueberries. These two flavors taste so delicious when combined, it’s crazy to me that they aren’t seen together more often. Perhaps it has something to do with sadly seasonal Pumpkin-cravings. It’s no secret that people tend to eat Pumpkin-heavy desserts during the Thanksgiving/Holiday season (helllllooo Pumpkin Pie), and then forget about them for the rest of the year. Poor Pumpkin…so often stuck in Libby’s cans, collecting dust until the next year’s Pumpkin Pie frenzy rolls around.

Well, let’s bring Pumpkin back for a summertime rendezvous. And, what better way to celebrate the Pumpkin rediscovery than with the delicious Blueberry? When plump and juicy Blueberries are cooked, their flavor profile changes immensely. They become deeper and more complex, able to stand up to bolder flavors and spices. In short, they become more compatible with our dear friend, Pumpkin.

So, here we go….I’ll bake up a Pumpkin Financier made with Almond flour and highlighted by browned butter, Orange zest and spices like Cinnamon, Nutmeg and Ginger.



Then, a Blueberry Compote simmered with a Cinnamon stick to top it all off.



When it’s all put together…with some softly whipped cream on top, it’s hard to remember how we ever made it through a summer without Pumpkin desserts…mmm.



Pumpkin Financier
(Pumpkin Financier recipe adapted from Sherry Yard)

5 oz butter
1 ¼ cups almond flour
1 ¼ cups AP flour
1 ½ cups powdered sugar
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
¼ tsp salt
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground ginger
¼ tsp ground nutmeg
2 Tbsp tightly packed brown sugar
8 egg whites, room temp
1 cup pumpkin puree
½ tsp chopped orange zest

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and brush a 10” round cake pan with butter, line with parchment, brush with butter again.
Melt butter in saucepan until it browns (7-10 minutes). Set aside to cool to room temp.
Sift together almond flour, AP flour, powdered sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt into the bowl of a stand mixer with a paddle attachment. Add spices and brown sugar. Mix dry ingredients for 30 seconds. Add egg whites all at once and mix on medium speed for 3 minutes. Add pumpking puree and orange zest and mix for 30 seconds.
Add melted butter all at once. Mix for 30 seconds on medium speed, then turn mixer to high speed and mix for 3 minutes more.
Poor mixture into prepared pan and bake for 35-40 minutes, rotating pan, until toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.


Blueberry Compote

1 pint Blueberries
Sugar to taste
Pinch of Salt
1 Cinnamon Stick

Put all ingredients in saucepan and cook over medium-low heat stirring occasionally until fruit becomes soft and mixture thickens (~7-10 minutes). Remove Cinnamon stick. Serve compote with Pumpkin Financier and a dollop of softly whipped cream.

Gateau Paris-Brest: a Delicious Pastry with a Story

One of the (non-edible) things I love about food is how it can tell a story. Now, I’m not saying that the first thing that pops to mind as I’m staring at my dinner is ”Oh, my dear dinner, tell me a story…” BUT, when I’m full (and thus less impatient) I do enjoy learning stories behind the delicious bites that made my tummy happy.



One story-full pastry that I enjoy is the “Gateau Paris-Brest”. Apparently, this pastry is supposed to resemble a bike tire, in honor of a famous bike race from Paris to Brest, France. The Gateau Paris-Brest dessert starts off with a ring of the dough called “pate a choux”. Pate a choux is the same type of dough that is used for things like cream puffs, éclairs and profiteroles. The dough starts out on the stovetop and then (after being piped into the desired shapes) it is baked in the oven.



The way I was taught to make a traditional Gateau Paris-Brest, is to top the dough ring with sliced almonds before baking. After it has finished baking and is cool, it is cut horizontally and then filled with a layer of almond-praline pastry cream and then a layer of rum whipped cream. Rum whipped cream is amazing…it’s a sweet secret weapon all in itself.

Finally, this round and delicious pastry is lightly dusted with powdered sugar and gobbled up. The Gateau Paris-Brest is absolutely refined and delicious. It tastes lightly sweet and a little boozy with crunch from the almonds and a multi-dimensional creaminess that is irresistible.



Gateau Paris -Brest
(adapted from Mary Risley)

Choux Paste
1 cup water
4 oz butter
1 cup flour
4 eggs
pinch salt
2-3 Tbsp sliced almonds

Praline
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup almonds

Pastry Cream (lighter version)
4 egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
1 tsp vanilla
2 Tbsp cornstarch
1 1/4 cups milk
pinch of salt

Rm Whipped Cream

2 cups heavy cream
2 Tbsp sugar
2 Tbsp dark rum
Confectioner's sugar


Choux: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. To make the pate a choux, combine the butter, salt and water in a small saucepan. Melt butter, then bring to a boil. Off the heat, add the flour all at once, beating with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a ball and comes away from the sides of the pan. Return to the heat and cook 1-2 minutes, until the dough forms a shiny ball. Transfer dough to the bowl of Kitchenaid, fitted with a paddle. Mix at low speed until dough has cooled somewhat. Add eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition until incorporated. Place dough in pastry bad with round tip. On a parchment-lined sheet tray, pipe a ring. Pipe another ring inside the first ring. Pipe a third ring on top. Eggwash and sprinkle with almonds. Turn up oven to 425 degres and bake about 40 minutes, until very brown. Remove from oven and pierce bottom a few times to let steam escape. When cool, slice in half lengthwise, forming a top and bottom.

Pastry Cream: Combine the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl. Add the cornstarch. Temper mixture by gradually whisking in heated milk. Pour mixture into saucepan. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Cook 1-2 minutes, until thick. Add the vanilla. Cool covered with plastic or buttered waxed paper to prevent skin. When cool, mix with praline.

Rum Whipped Cream: When ready to assemble, whip the cream with sugar and rum until stiff. Pipe praline pastry cream into bottom of pastry. Pipe whipped cream on top of praline cream. Cover with top pastry and dust with confectioners sugar.

Baking Bagels

It’s sort of an anomaly that I’m enamored with bagels. I grew up in the Midwest, which surely doesn’t explain it. And, although I’ve been carb-centric my whole life, I didn’t experience a REAL bagel until I was nearly twenty (thanks to my move to New York when I transferred colleges).

It was an edible epiphany…the reality of a B-A-G-E-L was so different from anything I’d experienced before. I realized that I’d been duped for all these years by rolls with holes, fictitiously labeled “bagels” in the grocery aisles I’d grown up in.

To me, the perfect bagel has a chewy, crunch of an exterior that your teeth pierce through, almost with a snap. A bagel has spring and depth to it, and I love mine topped with sesame seeds. There is something about the seeds’ slight texture and sweet undertone that complement the doughy orb perfectly.

Now that I live in San Francisco, I’ve been bagel frustrated for almost a year. The bagels that I’ve encountered in the Bay Area are imposters. I had almost decided to give up when (luckily) my bagel libido was revived. I realized that I could overcome this bagel dilemma…all I had to do was MAKE them.



The recipe I used called for a “poolish” which is a pre-ferment that needs to hang out for at least 12 hours before using. When it’s ready, you make the bagel dough, which you then form and rest (for another ~6-12 hours).



Then, it’s time for boiling in a molasses-baking soda bath (the key to a bagel’s chewy exterior) and baking.



My first bagel attempt was only a partial success…I’d let my dough rest for too long, and the result was a slightly over-darkened, craggy specimen (though still tasty).



But, I was determined to perfect the art of bagel making. And, on Sunday morning, I basked in bagel glory. The little golden bagels were plump (so plump that their holes were nearly squashed closed) and chewy and divine…topped with a little cream cheese, butter or homemade strawberry–rhubarb jam…mmmm. Any takers?




Bagels

Poolish:
1 c. bread flour
1/8 t. instant yeast
1 c. water (at the temp specified on your yeast package...mine was 120-130 degrees F)
Mix well, cover and leave at room temp 3-5 hours; refrigerate overnight

Final Dough:
1 c. Poolish (from above)
1/2 t. instant yeast
1/2 c. water (at the temp specified on our yeast package...mine was 120-130 degrees F)
16 oz. bread flour
1 T. vital wheat gluten (I found this at Whole Foods Market)
3 t. kosher salt
1 1/2 T. Malt Syrup (I also found this at Whole Foods Market)
Cornmeal (for dusting sheet pan)
Toppings, if desired (sesame seeds, poppy seads, onion, salt, etc.)

Add to Water for Poaching:
1 T. Molasses
1/2 t. baking soda

Allow poolish to come to room temp.
Stir yeast into the water just to dissolve.
Combine the poolish, flour, gluten, salt, syrup and water-yeast mixture in the bowl of electric mixer with the dough hook.
Mix 1 minute at low speed, 10-12 minutes medium speed. The dough should be slightly stiff, dense, smooth and dry. Add additional water if needed.
Cut dough into 10 equal pieces (3-4 oz each). Roll pieces into balls; cover: let rest 5 minutes.
Line a sheet pan with parchment and dust lightly with cornmeal.
Roll each ball into a 6 inch rope, loop it around your hand with the ends slightly overlapping in your palm. Roll the ends on the counter to seal.
Place the shaped pieces 2 inches apart on the prepared pan.
Enclose the pan in a plastic bag and let rise 1 1/2 hours until they have increased by about 25%. Refrigerate the dough at least 6 hours, or overnight.
Position the oven rack in the middle and preheat to 475. Have a sheet pan lined with parchment sprinkled with cornmeal near the stove. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and reduce heat until the water shimmers; add molasses and baking soda to the water.
Gently drop the dough into the water, cooking in batches. Flip them after 1 minute and poach on the other side for one minute.
Remove the bagels with slotted spoon to the prepared pan. Sprinkle seeds or toppings if desired.
Bake bagels 10-12 minutes until light brown, rotating the baking sheet as needed for even dough color. Let them cool 30 minutes before eating.

Fruit Fulfilled

Peaches and Berries and Cherries, oh my! I feel happy and inspired while perusing through the ever-fantastic Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market in San Francisco…the vendors’ baskets overflowing with ripe and ready fruits that are eternally satisfying just to look at, let alone eat.

For me, it’s impossible not to leap on such lush treasure…cheerfully anticipating my next bite into a perfect, juicy peach (while simultaneously regretting my decision to wear a white t-shirt).

The thing about many ridiculously delicious fruits like peaches, nectarines, berries, etc. is that they are at their peak for only a short time before they become a soggy mushy mess of unmet potential. But, have no fear…tis the season for fruit desserts!

I’ve been on a bit of a peach kick lately. Actually I’ve been on a peach kick my whole life. I even enjoy their fuzziness...something I have learned is an acquired taste. That said, you can imagine my enthusiasm yesterday when peaches, along with blueberries, were on my “To Bake” list.

I started my kitchen dance by making a Galette, which is basically an open-faced pie without the bother of a pie plate. It’s a lovely vehicle to show off sunny peaches and bright blueberries. And, it’s a super simple treat to make.



Another reason I love Galettes is that they make sense both as a dessert and as a special weekend breakfast (or mid-day snack) with a steaming cup of tea and the newspaper.



After filling the Galette up with fruit, I still had lots of peaches and blueberries in need of a home. Following my innate love for small things, I piled fruit into a couple of ramekins and topped them with pastry dough that I cut into little star shapes. They ended up looking quite cute…a perfect Fourth of July dessert.



After putting the patriotic pastries into the oven, I was still elbow deep in fruit (apparently 3 lbs of peaches and a pint of blueberries goes a long way). I added some toasted almond slices to the peach-blueberry filling for crunch and then filled a medium sized baking dish with the sweet mixture. I finished the ensemble by creating a quaint lattice top.



Into the oven my lattice topped fruit went, where it bubbled up and juiced out and turned golden brown.



Fruit desserts are divine with a nice big scoop of ice cream, which is not only delicious but also a safeguard for those of us who can’t wait to try a big bite, but don’t want a burnt tongue.

Blueberry and Peach Galette

1 2/3 cups AP Flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
8 Tbsp cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 inch dice
1/2 cup ice cold water (may not need all of it)

1/2 cup sugar
2 Tbsp corn starch
3 lbs peaches, sliced 1/2 inch think (~6 cups)
1 pint blueberries
juice from 1/2 a lemon

To make the dough, place the flour, salt and sugar into the bowl of a food processor and blend for 10 seconds. Add the cold butter and pulse until butter is cut into medium pieces (~5 seconds). Add cold water slowly and pulse until dough comes together in small, thick clumps (you may need to adjust the amount of water you use). Empty dough onto work surface and bring into a ball. Place in wax paper and then in the fridge to chill for at least 20 minutes.

To make the filling, in a large bowl whisk the sugar with the cornstarch. Gently toss in the peaches and blueberries, and sprinkle with the lemon juice. Let sit for 5 minutes, tossing occasionally.

Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to about 12 inches around. Fold the dough in half then half again and place on a parchment lined baking sheet, unfold to make a round.

Pour the fruit and juices (scraping the bowl to make sure you get all the cornstarch) into the pastry and mound it, leaving a 6 inch opening of exposed fruit in the center of the crust. Brush water on the pastry and sprinkle with sugar. Bake on the lower rack of a preheated 375 degree oven for 35-45 minutes.

Strawberry-Rose Roulade

Oh, the delicious Roulade. This fancy sounding dessert is basically a jellyroll wearing high heels, all dolled up for a night on the town.

For me, making Roulades is soothing. A good thing to embark on when you’re in need of some Zen…kind of like the yoga of the pastry world. There is a gentle nature in their preparation, and they come together fairly quickly.

Another thing I like about Roulades is that they are easy to play with in terms of flavor combinations and tastes. I’m a flavor flirt, so I love this versatility of Roulades.

My first date with a Roulade was full of strawberries and rose…literally. I combined strawberries and rose extract with a cloud of lightly sweetened, softly whipped cream. Then, I layered the Strawberry-Rose Cream onto the Lemon-Scented Genoise Cake that I had baked earlier (in a sheet pan so it was flat).

The final step is to roll up the cake, which creates lovely swirls of cake and filling that are both beautiful and delicious looking. You can’t help but want to dive in for a luscious bite.

To accompany the Roulade, I made a fresh strawberry sauce and sugared rose petals for decoration.

Strawberry-Rose Roulade

6 large eggs

7 oz sugar

2 tsp vanilla extract

3 ½ oz sifted cake flour

¼ tsp salt

3 oz unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1 tsp lemon zest

1 pt strawberries

8 fl oz whipping cream

1 Tbsp sugar

¼ tsp rose extract

Confectioner’s sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and line a half sheet pan with parchment.

Place eggs and sugar in bowl of stand mixer and set bowl over simmering water. Whisk constantly to keep eggs from scrambling. Heat mixture to about 110 degrees, or until eggs are warm and sugar is dissolved and no longer grainy to the touch.

Whip egg mixture on high speed until very light in color, thick and holds a ribbon (~10 minutes). Blend in vanilla and lemon zest.

Sift flour and salt together 2 times. With a strainer, sift 1/3 of the flour over the egg mixture and gently fold in with a whisk, spatula, bowl scraper, or your hand. Repeat 2 more times until all flour is used. There should be no streaks or lumps of flour. Whisk a generous scoop of batter into the melted butter, incorporating completely. Fold this butter mixture back into the batter. Immediately pour batter into prepared pan, using offset spatula to smooth into an even layer.

Bake cake ~ 15 minutes, until golden firm to touch and a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean.

Slice strawberries thinly (bite-size). Whip the cream, sugar and rose extract together. Fold in strawberries.

Dust top of the cooled cake with the confectioner’s sugar and place a piece of parchment on top. Flip cake out of pan onto a work surface, with a long side facing you. Carefully peal the parchment off the top. Spread filling evenly over the cake, leaving a 1” border all around. Starting with the long side closest to you, fold the edge over the filling, and then roll the cake into a log, pulling up and forward on the bottom parchment to help you roll the cake. When finished, the seam should be on the bottom. Trim ends. Lift roulade onto serving platter. Refrigerate at least 2 hours before slicing.

(From The Art and Soul of Baking by Cindy Mushet, adapted by crc).